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Any one seeking a little local knowledge and authenticity needs to stray further afield than the touristy stretches along Las Ramblas. On the surface Sant Antoni, ensconced between the Raval, the Eixample and the Poble Sec, appears like little more than a tired, residential neighbourhood. Young oldsters watching their kids as they climb on the monkey bars. Grandmamas in bright print house dresses talking at the local shop, a classic Spanish shopping cart in tow. Dog lovers of all stripes mooching up and down Avinguda Mistral with their dog companions. Groups of teens with wildly gelled hair and fashionable lip piercings assembled around park benches. A good mix of long time residents and new arrivals, Catalans and various global contingents. Simply a few blocks from the Montjuic Park, the neighbourhood feels removed from the urban chaos of the town centre. There is something deeply grounded and authentic about Sant Antoni, a character feature that it shares with many of the excellent cafes that line the streets of its modernist quadrants.

The’hora del vermut’ is a Spanish practice seamlessly woven into the fabric of humdrum life in Sant Antoni, 2nd nature to most locals and eagerly welcomed by many who have made Barcelona their adopted home. mid-morning, around 12pm, as a precursor to a massive lunch with family or friends. However [*COMMA] this pleasant aperitif, accompanied by a few tapas, is also a great way to end the working day or begin a night out.

Casa Jacinta ( Tamarit, 154 ; 933 172 059 ) is a big local fave. Found across from the Sant Antoni market, a low-
key sibling of the Boquera on Las Ramblas, it is a popular meeting place, especially for the weekend market crowd. The bar prides itself on being an expert when it comes to the’vermouth hour.’ purchasers get to pick from vintage vermouths, vermouth on tap, and wines from commended regions like La Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Bierzo. The Spanish have a long-standing love affair with tinned food, but make no mistake – they have nothing to do with tuna or corn in a can. A tapa of these fish and seafood delicacies or great Spanish ham are perfect companions to a tumbler of red or white vermouth, served on ice with a slice of orange or green olive.
Taking turns at picking up the tab , however , can be lengthened to any hour of the day, and a great follow-up to

Whereas superchef Ferran Adri won over food critics with orange foam, his bro, Albert, and his partners turned to their grandmothers’ cooking books. Instead of going the nouvelle cuisine route, they went about recovering old, classic recipes, collecting the very best ingredients and sprinkling them with a hint of imagination. The result : Inopia ( Carrer Tamarit, 104 ; 934 245 231 ; www.barinopia.com ), one of the most celebrated tapas restaurants in Sant Antoni, which even caught the eye of the New York Times. The sole drawback of fame and excellence : the crowds. It becomes very busy, and reservations are only accepted for the restaurant’sone table, which seats twelve and includes a tasting menu. The other option is writing your name on the chalkboard and waiting for a spot at the bar or along one of the long, white, tile ledges.

A little, family firm with 6 tables and roughly 40 tapas, lead by cook Francesc Gimeno. Bohemic’s reputation has grown continuously and quietly through personal recommendation. The menu is a curious blend of classic tapas and new creations dreamed up by the cook : 15-20 normal tapas – patatas bravas, chipirones ( cuttlefish ), croquettes, etc.- and 15-20 creative tapas asparagus with foie, rabbit cannelloni -, all made from scratch using only the best, freshest ingredients. And rumor has it that their home vermouth has gotten more than some positive reviews.

Lately, Inopia has been handed a run for its place at the top by a unassuming spot 2 blocks down the street : Bohemic ( Carrer Mans, 42 ; 934 240 628 ). A small, family firm with 6 tables and roughly forty tapas, headed by cook Francesc Gimeno. Bohemic’s reputation has grown continuously and quietly through recommendation by friends. The menu is a curious blend of classic tapas and new creations dreamed up by the cook : 15-20 normal tapas – patatas bravas, chipirones ( cuttlefish ), croquettes, etc.- and 15-20 creative tapas asparagus with foie, rabbit cannelloni -, all made from scratch only using the best, freshest ingredients. And rumor has it that their house vermouth has gotten more than some rave reviews.

For those of us who call Sant Antoni home, these are all familiar names and faces. Other Barcelonans are making the trip across the town to discover what all of the excitement is about and discover a corner of the town that hasn’t lost touch with its roots. And if you are visiting from out of town and desire something off the well trodden route, a spot that’s's still more area than souvenir stand, it could be an excellent idea to search out a little home away from home in Sant Antoni. Nothing causes you to feel more of a local than staying in your own studio ( www.bcninternet.com is a solid bet for quality apartments in Barcelona and round the area ), heading to the corner and ordering a tapa of boquerones al vinagre ( fresh anchovies in vinegar ), some olives and a tall glass of vermouth.

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